Honeymoon in North-Korea
22 Aug 2017
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If you like adventurous traveling, North Korea can't be missing on your wish list. That's at least what my wife and I thought when we were looking for a travel destination shortly after our wedding. Officially the safest holiday country in the world, now perhaps not so because of the threatening (nuclear) war with the rest of the world. Our flight with Koryo Airways sets of with march music, which sets the tone. Upon arrival, after having our luggage checked for propaganda material, biblical and other illegal matters, we are picked up from the airport by two guides and a driver; our obligatory travel companions. The travel program has been set for us, although small requests are accepted when we ask for it. First stop: The Mansudae Grand Monument to lay flowers and bow to the 20 meter high statues of Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il, the holiday has really begun. For the first few days, the guides want to check my photos on my camera screen, whether the leaders' images are depicted fully (eg missing a hand or foot is forbidden). The hotel is build on an island in a river in the capital Pyongyang and at check-in your passport will be taken. Half an hour later, the guide tells you that unfortunately you can not get into town yourself, for you do not have a passport on you. Early in the morning we leave for the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, serving as a mausoleum for Kim Il-sung, the founder and eternal president of North Korea and for his son Kim Jong-il, who succeeded him as leader of the Country. Fortunately, we are well prepared, because for this visit you should be dressed neatly. Other tourists who have not taken a tie get to loan one at the palace entrance. Camera and phone are handed in, off you go on an endless treadmill along photos of the great leaders, making your way towards the mausoleum. Crying Koreans walk in tight formations along the baled bodies of Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-Il, on each side of the glass sarcophagus, a solemn bow. Outside the square is a group of Koreans taking pictures and we are invited to join, one of the scarce contacts with the locals. Back in the center of Pyongyang we visit the subway. The German subway cars, built between 1957 and 1965, run across two lines that intersect at Jonu (battle strike) station. Hundreds of commuters step in and out or read the newspaper in a display on the platform of the mosaic-decorated stations with heroic images of the great leaders. We are lucky, August 25 appears to be a national holiday, it’s the day of Songun. The North Koreans celebrate the start of Kim Jong-il's military leadership in 1960 with massive celebrations throughout the country, a colorful show of group dances. We finish the day with a visit to the Triumphal Arch, modeled to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, but 10 meters higher (of course). On the last day of our stay in the country that is officially still at war with South Korea, we visit the demilitarized zone. A 248 kilometer long buffer zone full of land mines heavily guarded on both sides. Right at the border there are seven barracks where negotiations are taking place between both countries. The farewell of our driver and two guides in the morning is hearty and the expected last camera check isn’t taking place, apparently I’m trustworthy enough. During the long train journey to the border with China, I can make some pictures of the countryside, where all hills have large signs with texts like "The government provides you with rice". Upon arriving in China it is wonderful to be able to decide where to go, it feels like freedom.
